The five coastal villages of Cinque Terre are all essentially accessible to each other only by boat, a central train line that runs through them, or a network of spectacular foot paths. Winding roads lead to the mountainous tops of each village, but very limited access is given to the villages themselves. We took the train through to RioMaggiore to meet our hosts who lived in Volastra, a small village overlooking the Mediterranean between Corniglia and Manarola.